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Zanzibar

Saturday 7/12/2024

After my early run and breakfast an Uber came to take us to the ferry port. On paper it was walkable, even with luggage, but the roadworks would have meant dragging cases through construction sites, so common sense prevailed! At the ferry there was a degree of mayhem – lots of people, queues for everything, and not at all obvious what was required. We were picked up by some semi-official guides who took us to the front of the queues and told us where to go next. Even the check-in time was unclear – the ticket said 2 hours, we asked an official the day before and he said 1 hour, turned up before 8:30 for a 9:30 sailing – and were put on the 8:00 sailing which was just about to leave! We certainly weren’t going to complain about an early departure.

On board we found seats on the sun deck and soon were seeing Dar es Salaam from the water.

We went out past the fish market where we’d enjoyed brunch yesterday.

Once we’d lost sight of Dar es Salaam the trip was fairly uninteresting (we did ass an island with a tower on it) but within a couple of hours we were approaching Zanzibar. Everyone else hurried down to disembark, but there was no rush.

he ferry was a mixture of high and low tech! The luggage containers were lowered down a steep ramp in what looked like a lethal exercise until you noticed the rope controlling its descent.

Welcome to Zanzibar! Zanzibar is semi-autonomous and has its own immigration processes despite being part of Tanzania, which meant more queues!

It soon became apparent that Stonetown, the old part of Zanzibar city which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, had some amazing historic buildings, and some real conservation challenges. This, the Old Customs House, is nicely renovated, but many are is a poor state.

We walked, dragging our bags, along the waterfront then in through the old Fort into the narrow lanes and eventually to the Spice Palace Hotel, right in the middle of the little streets (too narrow for cars, but rather a lot of little motorbikes). The hotel had a small pool in the courtyard, very welcome in the heat.

The neighbouring building had just been restored and looked elegant.

After lunch we took a walk around Stonetown. Joyce was negotiating to buy plums.

This is one of those buildings that look like they need a little TLC. This, I think, is essentially the Town Hall

Ciné Afrique is an unusual art deco style building.

Next the Aga Khan Polyclinic

A seafront hotel

The seafront, cannons and all

Did you know Freddie Mercury was born in Zanzibar? Well there’s a museum about him, and a bar on the harbourfront named after him.

The Catholic Cathedral, conveniently close to our hotel.

Zanzibar is famous for its doors. The art was almost lost, but now restorations and new builds have created a demand that they find hard to meet.

Sunday 8/12/2024 – Stonetown

An early run took me down past the old fort as it was getting light

Another sad looking building awaiting restoration

I was back in time to shower and change and get to the Cathedral for 7:30 English Mass, which was quiet. I later regretted not going to the 9:00 Swahili Mass which was very lively!

After breakfast I went out exploring again, heading to the Peace Museum designed in the 1920s by British architect John Sinclair (with Indian influences)

A lovely light space inside, and interesting displays

School trip!

Next to the Peace Museum is the Natural History Museum. Not the greatest, but there were some living animals outside

Next door, another building designed by John Sinclair, originally housing the Zanzibar Municipality, now the home of Zanzibar Television

Also in this part of town, the Mnazi Mmoja Gardens (One Coconut Tree Gardens) originally belonging to the Mnazi Mmoja Hospital

There’s quite a bit of restoration work going on around here

One of the gateways to the Old Fort at Forodhani, Stonetown. We were taken through here on the way to our hotel yesterday, which Joyce found a bit disconcerting. We were lucky to get through, as they subsequently closed it for works inside.

Inside the Old Fort – peaceful apart from all the stallholders trying to persuade you to look at their wares.

The Ismaeli Jamatkhana and the Bohora Mosque. Zanzibar is full of mosques !

The “New Mosque”. Well it was once new.

In the afternoon I went for a walk taking me outside Stonetown and into newer parts of Zanzibar City. There were lots of tenement style buildings looking rather sad, but tucked between then was this amazing art deco mosque, the Salammy Mosque

Back in Stonetown I almost got to the only other Christian church in town, the Anglican Cathedral, but my timing was bad and it was closed. I couldn’t even get close enough to get a picture without paying admission to the exhibition (too expensive for the time I had available)

In the evening we went down to Forodhani Gardens on the waterfront – along with most of the population it seems. It’s the place to relax, promenade, and eat.

There was a wide choice of street food available, but we’d just eaten at a café right on the waters edge.

Monday 9/12/2024 – Nungwi and Kendwa

My early morning run took me south today, following the new road towards the airport. Another mosque marked my turning-round point.

On the return leg I managed to get down to the beach

We had booked to go to swim with turtles at Nungwi, right at the north of the island. While we were at breakfast the heavens opened! We had to wade down to Forodhani (the square gateway pictured yesterday) to meet our guide. There was a bit of confusion as it transpired the fee I’d paid didn’t include transport, but we were eventually on our way. It rained almost all the way (about 90 minutes) but stopped as we neared our destination.

And here, I swan with sea turtles!

Or rather, they swam with me

Rather than head straight back to Stonetown our guide, Freddie, suggested we stop at a beach at Kendwa.

It was an amazing beach, though rather touristy and popular with Europeans

I had a swim in the beautiful clear water

And a run along the beach

Boats in the little bay

We then enjoyed refreshments (beer and fresh pineapple juice) before heading back to Stonetown.

We were dropped at an “authentic Swahili restaurant” which turned out to be rather disappointing – very noisy, food not as hot as it should have been – but good to have had the experience.

In the evening we again went to Forodhani to eat, this time treating ourselves to a dessert – Joyce obviously relished her banana split!

After dinner and a hunt for a working ATM, we found a hotel for one last beer on Zanzibar (alcohol is available in the hotels, but not at the cafés on the seafront).

Tuesday 10/12/2024 Zanzibar and Dar-es-Salaam

One last run – long the beach past the State House. The light was amazing, even if it was tricky underfoot

After breakfast, a trip to the Darajani Spice Market, accessed through the little lanes (didn’t take any photos in the market as it was all about SMELL)

I took a last walk around Stonetown – more doors

And another mosque – the Friday Mosque

We had lunch at the restaurant we went to on the first day – proper African food cooked to order.

I’d booked a car to take us to the airport, and the guy arrived on time (though I was anxious having heard nothing beforehand) and he carried our bags out of the lanes to the vehicle. The drive to the airport was easy, and the airport is small, so of course we were ridiculously early for a short domestic flight. Eventually we boarded.

The actual flight was about 15 minutes and we arrived in Dar as the sun was setting

We had to wait quite a while for the car to take us to the hotel (he’d just taken another party) and the road to the hotel was a little unprepossessing, but the hotel in its little walled compound was fine. They cooked us fresh fish, accompanied by local beer, and we got an early night.

Wednesday 11/12/2024

Early night because it was to be an early start for me – to be at the airport for 03:00 (again too early really) The flight eventually left at 6:30 and there was nothing remarkable until we flew up the Red Sea and over the Gulf of Suez and some interesting hills towards Cairo.

Cairo was OK, once I persuaded them to let me into the departures area even though my flight was not for another 6 or 7 hours.

I amused myself with coffee, beer, food, walking around, and a visit to the airport’s museum… complete with mummies and everything

Then another uneventful flight to Heathrow where Meld met me and took me home.

The End!

Into Tanzania

Thursday 5/12/2024 – Bus to Dar es Salaam

It was indeed an early start – Grace’s dad picked us up in his tuk-tuk about 05:15, and we were soon standing by the road waiting for a bus that hadn’t yet left Mombasa. We’d followed the joining instructions too literally, not allowing for African Time. It might look light in the photo, but that’s from the big LED streetlights – it was still more than an hour before dawn.

Anyway, we didn’t miss the bus, and were soon heading south. The bus had 2 aisles and just 3 seats (each with access to an aisle) so reasonably comfortable.

Within a couple of hours we were at the border. We were still there 2 hours later, having queued to go through immigration controls. We were surrounded by money changers as we re-joined the bus.

The journey continued through pleasant though not spectacular scenery.

When we stopped for lunch we realised we should have changed some money at the border as we were unable to get cash via mpesa (mobile money) and had to limit our meal to what our few notes would buy!

We shared the bus mostly with a big family group heading to a wedding in Dar es Salaam, then women with henna-ed hands. They’d brought food and drink and shared with us.

All was going fine until we reached the outskirts of Dar, when the traffic got appalling: they are constructing express busways throughout the city (down the middle of roads) with consequent chaos. By the time we’d dropped off the wedding party and reached the bus station we were very late. Still , some people travelled in comfort.

Friday 6/12/2024 – Dar es Salaam

When I started researching Dar es Salaam I discovered there was a modern cable-stayed bridge, so of course it was my ambition to run across that bridge, then back on the old shoreline road with a view of it.

After a shower and breakfast we headed off to explore the city centre. This involved frequently negotiating the roadworks around the new bus route, with big “bus stations” in the middle of streets.

First stop was an ATM, then the Lutheran Cathedral

Along the waterfront, taking care not to get arrested for taking photos of government buildings, we saw the ferry across to the main port area.

Then the fish market – an amazing place with sights and smells

We tried to resist the hard sell, but the guy selling these lobsters was charming (and worked hard for his money)

Having chosen 2 for our brunch, he took us to another area to get them prepared, then to a cafe area where they were served with chai and chapati

Back along the waterfront we found the Catholic Cathedral, with splendid doors

Making our way back towards the hotel we passed the Ngazija Mosque

The Dahya Punja Library was the first Indian Gujarati Library in Africa and served a key role as a cornerstone of its roots for the Gujarati community

Near the hotel we found a Syrian restaurant with good and inexpensive food, including amazing falafels.

After supper we walked to book Joyce’s bus ticket back to Diani and buy some beer, passing more interesting buildings. Shree Swaminarayan Mandal

BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir

Saturday 7/12/2024 – Dar es Salaam

Before heading to Zanzibar I took a last run round Dar es Salaam. They’re building a Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) right into the city, and the busways beneath, and it’s mayhem!

Yet another mosque

Back to the hotel – shower, breakfast, pack and taxi to the ferry for the next installment.

South Coast

Tuesday 3/12/2024 Diani and Mivumoni

I managed to squeeze in an early run from Diani into Ukunda. More animal sculptures here!

We had breakfast with Valentine before she started work – decent coffee

And a “Swahili breakfast” with mbaazi

I then drove to Mivumoni, the first place in Kenya I thought of as home. I called on Maggy’s parents.

Visited Lucy at her shop (mobile signal is getting a big upgrade!)

And dined with Lucy’s family – they always lay on a spread

Wednesday 4/12/2024 – Mivumoni and Diani

As ever, my day started with a run, then back to the shamba

I’d left the car near the church and some local kids joined me when I went there to top up my drinking water.

I wasn’t allowed to leave without lunch!

Leave? Who said leave? The weather had other ideas – the heavens opened and it poured, while we took shelter.

Eventually the rain eased a little and we accepted the inevitable (getting soaked) and we hiked up to the car, and I hit the road. In fact, a mile down the road the weather was fine and I had an easy drive back to Diani, where Valentine’s house cats greeted me.

Joyce took me to the very north end of Diani Beach, where the Kongo River flows into the sea. Sometimes. At the moment there’s a sand bar, but when there has been heavy rain and stormy seas the river breaks through. It’s a famous place for sunsets, though not so spectacular today.

Nice spot for a paddle

Or even a swim…

Some of the biggest baobabs are here

Back at Valentine’s, the moon and a planet over the neighbour’s house.

After a beer, picking up Valentine, supper … it should have been an early night (very early start tomorrow) but hey…

In Malindi for Joyce’s Ordination

Saturday 30/11/2024 – Ordination

The big day dawns, and there’s a lot to get ready. Sometimes you just have to sit down and think about it…

Joyce is ready

And I’ve been Africanised

At the Cathedral I’m introduced to so many people, all wishing Joyce (and the other ordinands) well.

A huge procession forms up outside the church, but as people realise how long they might be standing in the sun many seek shade.

Various clergy assemble – including the man in a wig, who I believe is the Chancellor of the Diocese and is required to make the ordinations legal.

The Bishop is here, we can get started

Processing round the partly-complete Cathedral

The candidates for ordination are presented to the congregation

A long service with readings and prayers, almost all in Kiswahili

Joyce’s turn arrives – the moment of ordination

The new deacons with the Bishop

Back at Joyce’s, a feast awaits us. Several clergy join us, though they have to move on to other celebrations later.

Joyce’s mum shows that age is no barrier to dancing

Youngsters happy to pose for the camera

Mum helps Joyce cut the cake

There’s a funny tradition in Kenya where a celebration cake is shared – guests feeding the host and vice versa. I was not excused!

The girls took my camera and had some fun

Having masterminded the party, Joyce junior is allowed to rest

Sunday 1/12/2024 – Thanksgiving

My day started early with a run to the centre of Malindi and back. The roundabout has sculptures of wild animals on it.

Soon we were off to Gede, to Joyce’s church (St James), ready for a service of thanksgiving that would take much of the day. They’re not shy of telling you how you can make an offering via your phone! (Actually, that was one of the few things that was in English rather than Kiswahili).

Several choirs led the worship – I think this was the Youth Choir

A visiting choir from Kilifi

There were many ministers present, each playing their part in the service.

It wouldn’t be a celebration without cake; here new Deacons Joyce and Mike make the incision.

They were given gifts by the parish

The last of the group shots

Joyce models a lovely cloth she was given as a gift

We then went upstairs where lunch was served.

After lunch we headed to Joyce junior’s house in Watamu and while Rev Joyce attended a meeting we went to the beach, where I swam and ran. We then retired to a small bar to take a beer while we waited for her reverence to return. There are worse places to drink…

Joyce took “hanging around” rather literally

It was quite dark when, after a fish supper, we left the beach and made our way back to Malindi

Monday 2/12/2024 – Leaving Malindi

Before we left Malindi I took a run, this time away from town. I remembered the instruction to turn left at the little mosque.

A tree with an anthill (or termite mound?) up its trunk

Even for me, 7am is a bit early for a beer!

We didn’t move quickly – by the time we’d packed up, dropped the others in Watamu, driven south via Kilifi and Mtwapa, crossed the ferry, and drive to Diani the day was all but finished! We met another of Joyce’s nieces, Valentine, when she finished work and shared a late dinner.

A few days “home” in Majaoni

Monday-Friday 25-29/11/2024

The bus ride down to Mombasa was uneventful until we reached Mariakani and the driver tried to pass a queue on the grass which turned out to be slippery mud. For an hour people tried to get the tyres to grip, until eventually an articulated truck was persuaded to drag us free!

So we arrived late in Mombasa, and took an Uber home (as expensive as the bus fare!) where I caught up with Maggy and Susan and various other friends / family.

Susan and I took a walk to the point above the creek where for years there’s been a part-finished bar. But the project has been resumed and the place is looking smart, almost ready to open.

Susan got me to help her with the jigsaw puzzles I brought here – her first (even Maggy’s never done one)

We had a chapati party with mama Cheruto

There’s a project to make fish tanks along the creek, so they’ve been improving the road. Many of the roads are wider and smoother, but some are just a work in progress.

Another work in progress, John and Beryl have been beautifying the compound.

Beryl’s little garden within the compound – she’s the mastermind!

The kids (and their mums) love chicken and chips – this at Wendy’s above the creek. Here we met the local chief, who took a beer with us.

An outing to Chalet’s Beach. Someone though it was a good idea to leave me in charge of the children in the water

The girls enjoyed a camel ride.

All too soon it was time to travel to Malindi for our next instalment. I chose to go by 8-seater matatu, but it broke down halfway at Kilifi and we had to squeeze into another vehicle, arriving after dark despite my best efforts. But the welcome was warm and the trials of the day soon forgotten.

Nairobi and Excursions

Friday 22/11/2024 – Nairobi (peke yangu)

One last run in Naivasha with the ever-changing view over the lake.

After breakfast we had a leisurely drive back to Nairobi, and a not-quite-so-leisurely time trying to get to a hotel on top of a shopping centre next to the biggest mosque in East Africa late on a Friday morning. But we made it, dropped off the car (and got a refund for the tyre). I managed to find a camera repair shop to sort out my camera that had jammed on the boat back from Crescent Island, then went for a mooch around Nairobi city centre.

My first stop, after lunch, was the Jamia Mosque next to my hotel. Rather than just wandering in (as I think I could have done) I asked if I could enter which led (after a bit of a wait) to a guided tour by the director. The old part of the mosque was started in 1925 (so a centenary is coming soon!) and designed by a Scottish architect based on buildings from the Mughal Empire but with “modern” twists.

The mosque was extended in 1998 adding this impressive exterior…

The extension extends around this covered courtyard, admitting light to the huge prayer area. It really is an impressive building, but much more – a place of prayer and a community centre

After the mosque I explored more of the CBD of Nairobi – places I visited when I was working here over 15 years ago – including the Holy Family Basilica.

The baptistery is new since I was last here; simple but stunning stained glass.

I was also taken by this cross

Saturday 23/11/2024 – Aberdare National Park with Coach Steve

An early start today – meeting at 04:45 for a 05:00 prompt departure – so I had an early Uber pickup, and of course everyone else was on African time. A long bus ride followed, heading back towards Naivasha before turning north, before eventually stopping for breakfast at a place called Engineer, then up into the Aberdare National Park.

The bus took us further into the park, then we hiked (mostly on a road-like track) towards Karuru Falls. The countryside was impressive.

The first step of the falls.

It was difficult to capture all 3 steps – this was my best attempt.

Some pretty flowers

We then hiked back to the bus and set off towards Chania Falls. However, the state of the road was not in our favour .This couple got their road car through eventually, but it was determined that our bus would not make it (specifically would not make it back up the slope).

After considerable African-style discussion and negotiation, a solution was found where we all squeezed into a Land Cruiser pick-up – 3 of us on the front passenger seat and about 14 in the back!

Not the most comfortable ride, but it got us where we wanted to be

Where we wanted to be was Chania Falls – accessed by a short hike down to the river viewing point. Meld and I came here in November 2013!

The falls

Our team admiring / photographing the falls (and themselves!)

Some found the water too tempting!

More flowers

Happy hikers

After spending quite a while admiring the falls we returned to the pickup, then to the bus, then back out of the park to a hotel for a late lunch, then back into Nairobi. It was a pleasant outing, though not as much hiking as I’d anticipated, and the premium park entrance fee made it a pricey one. But it was good to catch up with Steve and meet some new people.

Sunday 24/11/2024 – Mount Longonot with Dr Faith

My friend Faith (who climbed Kilimanjaro with us) arrived early and picked me up from the hotel. It was too early for breakfast at the hotel, so we stopped near Limuru – mandazi, arrowroots, eggs and chai!

We were reasonably early at Mount Longonot, ready to hike.

We saw a few animals on the ascent, but not very close.

Since I was last here (2008) they’ve concrete part of the path to combat erosion. It makes it easier going, but not quite as “wild”.

You can see why

We reached the point where the path joins the rim, everyone wanting a photo

The view into the crater is amazing

The view towards Lake Naivasha (dehazed)

The rim is by no means flat!

At the summit – the highest point on the rim

We managed to become part of a much larger group here!

My team! Once we got on the second half of the rim we mostly ran, as we did for most of the descent too!

Watering one of the trees that Faith and her friends had planted recently

After Longonot Faith decided we should visit the geothermal spa which you could virtually see from the rim. However, it proved a long drive, and would have required paying park admission again, so we headed back. We stopped at Elsamere (home of George and Joy Adamson of Born Free fame) – a lovely spot that I’d like to visit properly when I come back again.

Then the drive back to Nairobi (with a late lunch at Mai Mahiu)

After a long day – beer, football and nyama choma at Quiver.

After a couple of beers we headed back to the hotel to pick up our luggage then to get the night bus to Mombasa – the start of the next chapter!

Back in Kenya – Naivasha

Taking advantage of retirement, I’ve come back to Kenya for a few weeks, with a couple of “core events” around which to frame my visit. As well as visiting as many of my many friends here as possible, I’m trying to take in some new places and revisit some places I visited a while back.

Tuesday 19/11/2024

Having flown into JKIA from Heathrow via Cairo (worried about a short connection in Cairo, but needn’t have done) there was the usual drag queuing through immigration and customs.

I had a short overnight (5am-9am) before sorting out some business, picking up a hire car and a travelling companion, and driving out to Naivasha. The road has improved since I last drove it in 2013! We had the mandatory stop at the top of the Great Rift Valley escarpment – views out to Mount Longonot and sheep skins drying in the sun.

Having reached our accommodation (“Guesthouse Jane” is slightly rundown but the people are really friendly and my concerns have allayed) the afternoon consisted of rest, a short run (good views over the lake), and supper in the hotel’s restaurant.

Wednesday 20/11/2024

Our plan was to visit Hell’s Gate National Park, one of the few where you can get out of the vehicle and walk about. But first we had to get a puncture fixed on the car, then we picked up a guide (Sophie), and started our safari. We had some good sightings of zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, buffalo, water buck, rock hyrax, antelope and gazelle (Thomsons and Grants) etc as well as being introduced to the scenery. Photos of these below.

Zebra Crossing

Zebra Crossing

Wildebeest

Wildebeest

Rock Hyrax

Rock Hyrax

Grant’s Gazelle

Wart Hogs

Baboon Family

Cliffs of metamorphic rock – the pale but is a recent rock fall

Fischers Tower, a volcanic “plug”

Jumping in front of the rock made famous in the Lion King movie.

We couldn’t escape being dressed up as Maasai – then the hard sell of memorabilia

But, in the middle of the park, the “repaired” tyre failed catastrophically, and we discovered the hire car had no spare. Sophie, our guide, was great in mobilising other guides to come with a spare off another vehicle so that we could get to the gorge for the mandatory hike, but then we had to take our wheel to a jua kali puncture repair, who managed to get it to stay airtight enough to return to town, give back the borrowed wheel, Then back to Naivasha to try to acquire a new tyre at a price the hire firm would pay. A long a stressful day, but part of the adventure of life in Kenya!

KWS stopped to check on us

Thursday 21/11/2024

After the trauma of yesterday’s tyre issues, we were hoping for a smoother day today! I ran early and was rewarded with a lovely view over the lake

We met guide Sophie at Sanctuary Farm whence we were to get a boat to Crescent Island. Soon we were kitted out heading for the boat. The water has risen in recent years, so the dead trees stand with their feet in water.

Little Egret with a fish it just caught

Heron

Hippo

Cormorants

Nesting Cormorants

Water Buck

Water Buck – you can tell the age by the rings on the horns

We did it – Mount Kenya

I’m back in Nairobi having successfully summitted Mount Kenya’s Lenana Point, the third peak and the only one accessible on foot.

The trip started on Tuesday when we drove to Naru Moru on the west side of the mountain, and did an 8km warm up hike.

Early on Wednesday we drive via the park gate to the Metrological Station, where the hike began. We hiked 10km, ascending from 3000m to 4300m, through forest, bog and moorland. It was tough going, negotiating rocks and water/mud. We reached Mackinders Camp about 4, prepared ourselves for the morning, ate supper and had an early night.

On Thursday we rose at 1am and started hiking at 2:30. By the light of head torches we traversed rocks and streams, always pole pole to Austrian Hut on a plateau below the three peaks. Then we started climbing up Lenana. There was snow on the ground, frozen hard so providing purchase for hiking poles. There were steel cables to hang onto to avoid falling off the mountain, but not for use with bare hands in the sub-zero temperature. The sun was rising as we approached the summit, and we started to see our spectacular surroundings.

I was pretty much exhausted and the descent was steep and hard work, but the views were stunning. I also realised just how much we had climbed in the dark. By the time we returned to camp I could barely stand!

After breakfast and a short nap we were off again, hiking back to the Met Station. 10km, 1300m of descent, you’d expect a rapid hike. But the terrain in rough, rocky, boggy, so it took 4 hours.

Overall it was a fantastic experience, much tougher than Kilimanjaro despite being lower, because of the terrain. The views were amazing! And it was quiet – there were only 5 of us on the mountain (3 hikers and 2 guides).

I’ll add some more photos later.

If you want to support my fundraiser, donations can be made via Eyes For East Africa’s own website. If you do donate, please tell me.

https://www.eyesforeastafrica.org/support-us.html

Climbing Mount Kenya

Back in January I climbed Kilimanjaro and through the generosity of many supporters raised over £3000 for the Kwale Eye Centre in Kenya.

I am currently back in Kenya and next week will climb Mount Kenya, Africa’s second highest mountain, on a 4-day hike from West to East. I’m told it’s tougher and colder than Kilimanjaro, and the El Niño rains that have been battering Kenya will add an extra dimension!

I thought it might be too soon to squeeze people for money again, but a number of friends have asked how to donate and it’s such an important cause… So if you want to support that’s great, but don’t feel pressured.

For technical reasons we can’t use GoFundMe at the moment, but donations can be made via Eyes For East Africa’s own website. If you do donate, please tell me.

https://www.eyesforeastafrica.org/support-us.html

I will add some updates to this blog.

Many thanks
Aidan

And Finally

My final couple of days were quietly preparing to travel and sorting out the truck. Friday started with a dawn run along the length of Bamburi beach (foolishly in bare feet)

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Truck tyre sorted, some final shopping down, I returned to Majaoni and took a walk by the creek.

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On the way back I saw these kids enjoying their sloping tree.

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Saturday morning – a visit to say goodbye to Beatrice and family (Ben is home from hospital)

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Lydia, Francisca and Martin

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One for granny!

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And then Jacob drove me to the airport and I’m catching up as I wait in Nairobi for the midnight flight to Amsterdam. 2 weeks has passed very quickly, and I’ll miss all my Kenyan friends. Tutaonana tena marafiki.

Mivumoni – a trip home

A visit to Mivumoni, my Kenyan rural home, is a must. Sadly this was squeezed into a few days. We took some of Lucy’s belongings home in the truck.

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After lunch we delivered Maggy and her belongings to her shamba, and her Dad Boniface (and many grandchildren) took me on a walk round.

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We met Boniface’s brother Peter and walked to his home, where his daughter Lina (sister to Father Dominic) was cooking chapati (tasting was mandatory, after eating their tangerines and oranges).

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They were using a Jikokoa, a modern charcoal stove that is cleaner and uses less fuel than a traditional makaa jiko. Sadly, at 3500 shillings (about £30) they are rather expensive for the average family.

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We found Maggy tending her goats.

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And her nephew Caleb.

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Me and most of the kids

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Mivumoni Sunsets through the mivuma trees.

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John getting milk for breakfast

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Next day Athanasia and I made a long tour to visits clients of the epilepsy programme. I took lots of pictures of clients and their families which I will write up properly in due course.

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Making brooms (fagio) from palm leaves

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Fenesi – the craziest fruit, supper sickly sweet.

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The young man in this photo suffered brain damage from malaria which resulted in epilepsy.  He is violent and has to be kept securely in the little room here. It felt a bit like a caged wild animal, but I saw the risk as he turned on his grandfather.

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Mother and daughters of a client we were looking for.

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The client with the rest of her family

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Another client.

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One client had terrible sores on his leg. I wished I had some medical knowledge to suggest treatment. Like several we saw today who live a long way from Mivumoni the journey to the clinic is long and they don’t have strength for the walk so they lapse on their drugs.

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A client

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Mat making

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Another client

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Back at Mivumoni Maggy and her sister Vero were cooking for my Kenyan birthday party and Maggy’s nieces and nephews had swelled the numbers at Lucy’s home.

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Ann helping with the cooking – eldest daughters have responsibilities.

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Mike and I had a sneaky beer (I needed one after a long dusty drive) and collected some drinks for the party.

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Vero in the kitchen tending the pilau.

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Thursday morning Mike took me for a walk to the Mivumoni Primary School

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Kindergarten class

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We moved next door to the polytechnic (technical training – dress making, carpentry, masonry, ICT, welding, mechanics etc). They have a smart new dormitory for female students, but no toilets so that can’t yet use it.

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Beds for the dormitory

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A lady sorting beans at the shopping centre

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The shopping centre

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Bananas on the move.

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Lucy preparing cabbage for lunch

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The neighbours children share our lunch

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Maggy’s nephews and niece wanted a lift to the posho mill (to rind maize into flour)

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Time for goodbyes

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Heading back to Mombasa we stooped to share tea with Lucy’s sister Ndunge.

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Back to Barnabas

I made my annual visit to Barnabas school where we provide 3 teachers. Over the last few years they have worked to make more permanent classrooms on one part of the site, self-contained and separate from the orphanage.The newbuildings include a large classroom which doubles as a hall and a church.

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One of the older temporary classrooms

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Kiswahili lessons

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This classroom was opened just after I visited last year.

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One of the older permanent classrooms – it was Imelda’s class when we were here and is currently Lucy’s.

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One of the Kindergarten classes

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The girls’ dormitory in the orphanage.

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Director Harrison

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Kenyans love to play games, here using bottle tops.

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In the kitchen. It’s rather black and smokey, even with the hood over the stove.

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One pose before I move on.

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Quiet Days in Majaoni

At last Sharifu and John installed the new water pump

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The well is some 39m deep (at last that’s the length of rope we had to get to lower the pump into place) so it’s pretty scary to see Sharifu working with no means of support other than his feet wedged across the walls.

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Francisca with her aunt Sidi

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John, Tina and I went to Joe’s regular haunt, Kendas, for a late night drink (I’ve only ever been there late, with Joe).

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John and his dad Samuel at their shop.

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Joe’s brother Martin and his wife Selina, in their new house in Majaoni.

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We made a Sunday afternoon outing to North Coast at Kikambala, a regular haunt when Joe was based there, as an early celebration of Francisca’s birthday. While some of us swam, Dorine took photos of the babies… Francisca

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Little Aidan

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The swimmers.

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On Monday Beatrice and I grabbed some lunch at a little Swahili place in Bamburi – great value and quick service, and some interesting decor (egg trays on ceiling and walls!).

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We then drive to Coast General Hospital to visit Beatrice’s brother. Relatives sit around outside waiting to see their loved ones. It seemed much less chaotic than Kilifi (and given the weather, sitting around outside in the shade is far preferable to being trapped indoors)

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Ben was working as a boda boda rider and had an accident at the Bamburi junction (an “overlapping matatu” hit him and broke his leg). Apart from the pain, the financial impacts are severe (hospital fees, drugs, loss of income, damage to brand new bike…). This is also why I only use boda boda off the highway where there are no matatus to be hit by.

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Kilifi

Father Joe asked me to visit the Pwani Secondary School for the Deaf. When it was started almost ten years ago it was only the fourth secondary school for deaf children in Kenya, but others saw that it could be done and there are now about 10.

Last time I visited about 4 years ago there was a mud-built kitchen, now they have a good modern kitchen (decorated by my teachers).

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Most of the students are away as only those taking the KCSE public exams remain. They were practising their sign language exam.

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One of the dormitories, sponsored by Mombasa Port Authority, built since my last visit.

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The nearest building, the ablutions block, was brand new when I last visited. The customs beyond were the first buildings on site.

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On one of my visits I remember the steps at the front being built. I was struck by women hammering nails straight for reuse, which no one at home would ever bother with these days.

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The students enjoy a break.

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The school office. They’d like a proper building, but they also need a science lab…

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The principal and his deputy. They are in the process of building 2 more classrooms.

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After the school we went to look for food, and my inbuilt food radar found the mkahawa Joe and I met Fr Anthony at many years ago, Simia Tamu where we had a good lunch of githeri.

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We went on the the little beach on Kilifi Creek and walked among the rock pools. On the way down we saw this interesting baobab tree, looking like organ pipes.

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Collecting sea water to bathe baby Aidan

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I’m a star!

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Rush hour traffic

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The cliffs (Kilifi is a corruption of Cliffy) are interesting


The mangrove reminded me of a Buddhist shrine with its prayer cloths, but it’s a shrine to our disposable culture.

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Kilifi has more than its fair share of impressive baobabs.

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We went on to the North Coast Beach Hotel, an old haunt at Kikambala, where Lucy and I swam in the pool as the tide was out.

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Then back via Tuskys to a chapati party.

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Tina’s Big Day

Tina has been training this year on the Marianists’ Catering Course at their school in Bombolulu. Today, as the end of term approaches, she had to do her practical exam: preparing a meal and serving it to a table of guests. I was lucky to be chosen; sadly most of her relatives who were invited were unable to attend but we made up a table of 5,

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Afterwards I took a walk at Majaoni to view the creek.

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Coba Cabana

After a busy day yesterday today was one of relaxation. Lucy, Beatrice, Dorine, Aidan and I went to Coba Cobana beach for lunch (when we eventually found it – they’ve built some new road around Mtwapa which confused me!).

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View from the beach

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Beatrice found a job as baby sitter.

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They were landing some fish, including a ray with huge wings that was lying in the beach.

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Two Aidans

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I swam when tide came high

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We walked along by the mangrove

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Selfie!

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Back at Majaoni Jacob was comforting Francisca, who has malaria.

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A Visit Home

We made an extremely early start today, as we were to visit Joe’s family’s rural home, where they are suffering from drought. Our first stop was the big market at Kongowea to load up with maize to feed the animals.

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This all took ages, though it gave me a chance to see the market, all hustle and bustle. Eventually we were loaded, some string find to tie down the load, and we were on the road again. Next stop was the airport to collect my missing bag, then up the main highway towards Nairobi as far as Mariakani, where we had an excellent yet cheap breakfast. Then on to the rural home, where the youngsters turn need out to unload the maize.

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It really does look dry here. The trees are still green, but the ground is parched.

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The goats soon found the maize that was dropped.

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Some of the cattle are really thin.

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They asked if I’d drive the truck to the nearest water distribution point (a few miles away), and soon about 40 jerricans appeared.

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Our queue at the water point

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Reloading the truck. It handled better with the weight on the back!

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Back home, the water had to be carried. I could barely lift the full jerricans.

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I had some clothes donated by colleagues at work which a shared admin the extended family, all very needy.

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Two of granny’s teddies found happy owners.

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It’s a very peaceful spot, if only there were more water…

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We walked to the dam, the reservoir is almost dry, but there is just a little water which can be used for the animals (so this community is luckier than some).

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Some people also drink this water, if they don’t have means to fetch from the water point. It’s hardly clean!

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However, the animals appreciate it.

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We then made out way home, a fairly easy drive on the new road to Kaloleni and Kilifi, then back down the coast road.

Mto Panga’s new priest

Maggy and i had an early start to get to Mto Panga, though it’s only a few miles from Shanzu. We were met y Maggy’s cousin, Dominic, recently ordained priest and appointed to the parish here. After breakfast in the priests’ house we drove to the first of 2 outstations, newly opened above Tudor Creek.

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The church is temporary, though it’s already not big enough for th growing population in the area.

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The choir
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The second outstation, about a year old and also crowded
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One of 2 Sunday School classes
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Father Dominic leads the service
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The choir
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A happy mass-goer

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Back at the main parish church

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The priests’ house

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A new bigger church is under construction

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After a fine lunch and a little snooze, I hurried on to my next appointment, Shanique’s 4th birthday party, hosted by Tina.

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Shanique and her cousin Gloria

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Cake time

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Back in Mombasa

I’m back in Mombasa again, and staying at Joe’s place in Majaoni where Meld and I stayed 3 years ago. It’s like coming home. though some things have changed.

For example, some building work has been started, I think this is linked t the rescue centre that Joe is working on.

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Lydia took me to her shop a short walk away, where these children had been keeping an eye on things.

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This is the shop.

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On Saturday I took Maggy, Beatrice, Dorine and little Aidan to the Serena Beach Hotel.
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Aidan enjoyed his sun bed

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Alternative transport?

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Farewells

Our first farewell was to Joe’s new house, and the arrow commemorating the contribution in memory of Bill Haynes that paid for the roof.

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The house looks good

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Teddy cutting the grass

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Deacon Joseph, Father Joe, Bridget, Steve and Teddy

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Then to Shanzu, where at last we caught up with Joe’s brother Martin

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He took us back to his house to see the family

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Cecilia (Joe’s sister in law) at the fruit and veg stall.

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And then to Barnabas, where we greeted each class

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Bridget with Eva (in red gingham)

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The cooks at work

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Relaxing, waiting for lunch

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Sadly our schedule meant that we had to leave before lunch was served. We met Eunice and went with her to Kiembeni where her friend Mary has “plarn” baskets for us to bring home – plarn is “plastic yarn” made from old plastic bags, crocheted into very functional baskets (and if you’d like one I have some for sale!).

And then, a not-too-quick drive to the airport, hand back the car, check in, a mooch in the shops, onto our flight. First stop was Kilimanjaro, where Bridget got her first glimpse of Africa’s highest mountain, then on to Addis Ababa where we hit the ground with a bump. A long chilly evening in Bole International Airport preceded a bumpy flight to Heathrow. At last, when we emerged from the terminal, the car was waiting for us, one signature and we were off, and soon home to do the laundry!

And finally – a couple of recommendations from this trip:

  • We hired both our cars from Glory (www.glorykenya.com). They were in good condition, clean, and the service was excellent, and flexible. More expensive than back street, but well worth it.
  • For the first time we used a Meet and Greet parking service (of airport) by DriveFly (www.drivefly.co.uk). Prebooked, we simply drove the car to the right place in the short stay car park and they took it away; when we returned we called them as we picked up our bags, and when we got to the same car park the car was ready and waiting and warm (and had done just 8 miles in our absence – I took a photo of the odometer before we left it). Cheaper and easier than long stay, will use them again.,
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