Month: December 2024


Zanzibar

Saturday 7/12/2024

After my early run and breakfast an Uber came to take us to the ferry port. On paper it was walkable, even with luggage, but the roadworks would have meant dragging cases through construction sites, so common sense prevailed! At the ferry there was a degree of mayhem – lots of people, queues for everything, and not at all obvious what was required. We were picked up by some semi-official guides who took us to the front of the queues and told us where to go next. Even the check-in time was unclear – the ticket said 2 hours, we asked an official the day before and he said 1 hour, turned up before 8:30 for a 9:30 sailing – and were put on the 8:00 sailing which was just about to leave! We certainly weren’t going to complain about an early departure.

On board we found seats on the sun deck and soon were seeing Dar es Salaam from the water.

We went out past the fish market where we’d enjoyed brunch yesterday.

Once we’d lost sight of Dar es Salaam the trip was fairly uninteresting (we did ass an island with a tower on it) but within a couple of hours we were approaching Zanzibar. Everyone else hurried down to disembark, but there was no rush.

he ferry was a mixture of high and low tech! The luggage containers were lowered down a steep ramp in what looked like a lethal exercise until you noticed the rope controlling its descent.

Welcome to Zanzibar! Zanzibar is semi-autonomous and has its own immigration processes despite being part of Tanzania, which meant more queues!

It soon became apparent that Stonetown, the old part of Zanzibar city which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, had some amazing historic buildings, and some real conservation challenges. This, the Old Customs House, is nicely renovated, but many are is a poor state.

We walked, dragging our bags, along the waterfront then in through the old Fort into the narrow lanes and eventually to the Spice Palace Hotel, right in the middle of the little streets (too narrow for cars, but rather a lot of little motorbikes). The hotel had a small pool in the courtyard, very welcome in the heat.

The neighbouring building had just been restored and looked elegant.

After lunch we took a walk around Stonetown. Joyce was negotiating to buy plums.

This is one of those buildings that look like they need a little TLC. This, I think, is essentially the Town Hall

Ciné Afrique is an unusual art deco style building.

Next the Aga Khan Polyclinic

A seafront hotel

The seafront, cannons and all

Did you know Freddie Mercury was born in Zanzibar? Well there’s a museum about him, and a bar on the harbourfront named after him.

The Catholic Cathedral, conveniently close to our hotel.

Zanzibar is famous for its doors. The art was almost lost, but now restorations and new builds have created a demand that they find hard to meet.

Sunday 8/12/2024 – Stonetown

An early run took me down past the old fort as it was getting light

Another sad looking building awaiting restoration

I was back in time to shower and change and get to the Cathedral for 7:30 English Mass, which was quiet. I later regretted not going to the 9:00 Swahili Mass which was very lively!

After breakfast I went out exploring again, heading to the Peace Museum designed in the 1920s by British architect John Sinclair (with Indian influences)

A lovely light space inside, and interesting displays

School trip!

Next to the Peace Museum is the Natural History Museum. Not the greatest, but there were some living animals outside

Next door, another building designed by John Sinclair, originally housing the Zanzibar Municipality, now the home of Zanzibar Television

Also in this part of town, the Mnazi Mmoja Gardens (One Coconut Tree Gardens) originally belonging to the Mnazi Mmoja Hospital

There’s quite a bit of restoration work going on around here

One of the gateways to the Old Fort at Forodhani, Stonetown. We were taken through here on the way to our hotel yesterday, which Joyce found a bit disconcerting. We were lucky to get through, as they subsequently closed it for works inside.

Inside the Old Fort – peaceful apart from all the stallholders trying to persuade you to look at their wares.

The Ismaeli Jamatkhana and the Bohora Mosque. Zanzibar is full of mosques !

The “New Mosque”. Well it was once new.

In the afternoon I went for a walk taking me outside Stonetown and into newer parts of Zanzibar City. There were lots of tenement style buildings looking rather sad, but tucked between then was this amazing art deco mosque, the Salammy Mosque

Back in Stonetown I almost got to the only other Christian church in town, the Anglican Cathedral, but my timing was bad and it was closed. I couldn’t even get close enough to get a picture without paying admission to the exhibition (too expensive for the time I had available)

In the evening we went down to Forodhani Gardens on the waterfront – along with most of the population it seems. It’s the place to relax, promenade, and eat.

There was a wide choice of street food available, but we’d just eaten at a café right on the waters edge.

Monday 9/12/2024 – Nungwi and Kendwa

My early morning run took me south today, following the new road towards the airport. Another mosque marked my turning-round point.

On the return leg I managed to get down to the beach

We had booked to go to swim with turtles at Nungwi, right at the north of the island. While we were at breakfast the heavens opened! We had to wade down to Forodhani (the square gateway pictured yesterday) to meet our guide. There was a bit of confusion as it transpired the fee I’d paid didn’t include transport, but we were eventually on our way. It rained almost all the way (about 90 minutes) but stopped as we neared our destination.

And here, I swan with sea turtles!

Or rather, they swam with me

Rather than head straight back to Stonetown our guide, Freddie, suggested we stop at a beach at Kendwa.

It was an amazing beach, though rather touristy and popular with Europeans

I had a swim in the beautiful clear water

And a run along the beach

Boats in the little bay

We then enjoyed refreshments (beer and fresh pineapple juice) before heading back to Stonetown.

We were dropped at an “authentic Swahili restaurant” which turned out to be rather disappointing – very noisy, food not as hot as it should have been – but good to have had the experience.

In the evening we again went to Forodhani to eat, this time treating ourselves to a dessert – Joyce obviously relished her banana split!

After dinner and a hunt for a working ATM, we found a hotel for one last beer on Zanzibar (alcohol is available in the hotels, but not at the cafés on the seafront).

Tuesday 10/12/2024 Zanzibar and Dar-es-Salaam

One last run – long the beach past the State House. The light was amazing, even if it was tricky underfoot

After breakfast, a trip to the Darajani Spice Market, accessed through the little lanes (didn’t take any photos in the market as it was all about SMELL)

I took a last walk around Stonetown – more doors

And another mosque – the Friday Mosque

We had lunch at the restaurant we went to on the first day – proper African food cooked to order.

I’d booked a car to take us to the airport, and the guy arrived on time (though I was anxious having heard nothing beforehand) and he carried our bags out of the lanes to the vehicle. The drive to the airport was easy, and the airport is small, so of course we were ridiculously early for a short domestic flight. Eventually we boarded.

The actual flight was about 15 minutes and we arrived in Dar as the sun was setting

We had to wait quite a while for the car to take us to the hotel (he’d just taken another party) and the road to the hotel was a little unprepossessing, but the hotel in its little walled compound was fine. They cooked us fresh fish, accompanied by local beer, and we got an early night.

Wednesday 11/12/2024

Early night because it was to be an early start for me – to be at the airport for 03:00 (again too early really) The flight eventually left at 6:30 and there was nothing remarkable until we flew up the Red Sea and over the Gulf of Suez and some interesting hills towards Cairo.

Cairo was OK, once I persuaded them to let me into the departures area even though my flight was not for another 6 or 7 hours.

I amused myself with coffee, beer, food, walking around, and a visit to the airport’s museum… complete with mummies and everything

Then another uneventful flight to Heathrow where Meld met me and took me home.

The End!

Into Tanzania

Thursday 5/12/2024 – Bus to Dar es Salaam

It was indeed an early start – Grace’s dad picked us up in his tuk-tuk about 05:15, and we were soon standing by the road waiting for a bus that hadn’t yet left Mombasa. We’d followed the joining instructions too literally, not allowing for African Time. It might look light in the photo, but that’s from the big LED streetlights – it was still more than an hour before dawn.

Anyway, we didn’t miss the bus, and were soon heading south. The bus had 2 aisles and just 3 seats (each with access to an aisle) so reasonably comfortable.

Within a couple of hours we were at the border. We were still there 2 hours later, having queued to go through immigration controls. We were surrounded by money changers as we re-joined the bus.

The journey continued through pleasant though not spectacular scenery.

When we stopped for lunch we realised we should have changed some money at the border as we were unable to get cash via mpesa (mobile money) and had to limit our meal to what our few notes would buy!

We shared the bus mostly with a big family group heading to a wedding in Dar es Salaam, then women with henna-ed hands. They’d brought food and drink and shared with us.

All was going fine until we reached the outskirts of Dar, when the traffic got appalling: they are constructing express busways throughout the city (down the middle of roads) with consequent chaos. By the time we’d dropped off the wedding party and reached the bus station we were very late. Still , some people travelled in comfort.

Friday 6/12/2024 – Dar es Salaam

When I started researching Dar es Salaam I discovered there was a modern cable-stayed bridge, so of course it was my ambition to run across that bridge, then back on the old shoreline road with a view of it.

After a shower and breakfast we headed off to explore the city centre. This involved frequently negotiating the roadworks around the new bus route, with big “bus stations” in the middle of streets.

First stop was an ATM, then the Lutheran Cathedral

Along the waterfront, taking care not to get arrested for taking photos of government buildings, we saw the ferry across to the main port area.

Then the fish market – an amazing place with sights and smells

We tried to resist the hard sell, but the guy selling these lobsters was charming (and worked hard for his money)

Having chosen 2 for our brunch, he took us to another area to get them prepared, then to a cafe area where they were served with chai and chapati

Back along the waterfront we found the Catholic Cathedral, with splendid doors

Making our way back towards the hotel we passed the Ngazija Mosque

The Dahya Punja Library was the first Indian Gujarati Library in Africa and served a key role as a cornerstone of its roots for the Gujarati community

Near the hotel we found a Syrian restaurant with good and inexpensive food, including amazing falafels.

After supper we walked to book Joyce’s bus ticket back to Diani and buy some beer, passing more interesting buildings. Shree Swaminarayan Mandal

BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir

Saturday 7/12/2024 – Dar es Salaam

Before heading to Zanzibar I took a last run round Dar es Salaam. They’re building a Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) right into the city, and the busways beneath, and it’s mayhem!

Yet another mosque

Back to the hotel – shower, breakfast, pack and taxi to the ferry for the next installment.

South Coast

Tuesday 3/12/2024 Diani and Mivumoni

I managed to squeeze in an early run from Diani into Ukunda. More animal sculptures here!

We had breakfast with Valentine before she started work – decent coffee

And a “Swahili breakfast” with mbaazi

I then drove to Mivumoni, the first place in Kenya I thought of as home. I called on Maggy’s parents.

Visited Lucy at her shop (mobile signal is getting a big upgrade!)

And dined with Lucy’s family – they always lay on a spread

Wednesday 4/12/2024 – Mivumoni and Diani

As ever, my day started with a run, then back to the shamba

I’d left the car near the church and some local kids joined me when I went there to top up my drinking water.

I wasn’t allowed to leave without lunch!

Leave? Who said leave? The weather had other ideas – the heavens opened and it poured, while we took shelter.

Eventually the rain eased a little and we accepted the inevitable (getting soaked) and we hiked up to the car, and I hit the road. In fact, a mile down the road the weather was fine and I had an easy drive back to Diani, where Valentine’s house cats greeted me.

Joyce took me to the very north end of Diani Beach, where the Kongo River flows into the sea. Sometimes. At the moment there’s a sand bar, but when there has been heavy rain and stormy seas the river breaks through. It’s a famous place for sunsets, though not so spectacular today.

Nice spot for a paddle

Or even a swim…

Some of the biggest baobabs are here

Back at Valentine’s, the moon and a planet over the neighbour’s house.

After a beer, picking up Valentine, supper … it should have been an early night (very early start tomorrow) but hey…

In Malindi for Joyce’s Ordination

Saturday 30/11/2024 – Ordination

The big day dawns, and there’s a lot to get ready. Sometimes you just have to sit down and think about it…

Joyce is ready

And I’ve been Africanised

At the Cathedral I’m introduced to so many people, all wishing Joyce (and the other ordinands) well.

A huge procession forms up outside the church, but as people realise how long they might be standing in the sun many seek shade.

Various clergy assemble – including the man in a wig, who I believe is the Chancellor of the Diocese and is required to make the ordinations legal.

The Bishop is here, we can get started

Processing round the partly-complete Cathedral

The candidates for ordination are presented to the congregation

A long service with readings and prayers, almost all in Kiswahili

Joyce’s turn arrives – the moment of ordination

The new deacons with the Bishop

Back at Joyce’s, a feast awaits us. Several clergy join us, though they have to move on to other celebrations later.

Joyce’s mum shows that age is no barrier to dancing

Youngsters happy to pose for the camera

Mum helps Joyce cut the cake

There’s a funny tradition in Kenya where a celebration cake is shared – guests feeding the host and vice versa. I was not excused!

The girls took my camera and had some fun

Having masterminded the party, Joyce junior is allowed to rest

Sunday 1/12/2024 – Thanksgiving

My day started early with a run to the centre of Malindi and back. The roundabout has sculptures of wild animals on it.

Soon we were off to Gede, to Joyce’s church (St James), ready for a service of thanksgiving that would take much of the day. They’re not shy of telling you how you can make an offering via your phone! (Actually, that was one of the few things that was in English rather than Kiswahili).

Several choirs led the worship – I think this was the Youth Choir

A visiting choir from Kilifi

There were many ministers present, each playing their part in the service.

It wouldn’t be a celebration without cake; here new Deacons Joyce and Mike make the incision.

They were given gifts by the parish

The last of the group shots

Joyce models a lovely cloth she was given as a gift

We then went upstairs where lunch was served.

After lunch we headed to Joyce junior’s house in Watamu and while Rev Joyce attended a meeting we went to the beach, where I swam and ran. We then retired to a small bar to take a beer while we waited for her reverence to return. There are worse places to drink…

Joyce took “hanging around” rather literally

It was quite dark when, after a fish supper, we left the beach and made our way back to Malindi

Monday 2/12/2024 – Leaving Malindi

Before we left Malindi I took a run, this time away from town. I remembered the instruction to turn left at the little mosque.

A tree with an anthill (or termite mound?) up its trunk

Even for me, 7am is a bit early for a beer!

We didn’t move quickly – by the time we’d packed up, dropped the others in Watamu, driven south via Kilifi and Mtwapa, crossed the ferry, and drive to Diani the day was all but finished! We met another of Joyce’s nieces, Valentine, when she finished work and shared a late dinner.